Green paddy dancing in the afternoon sunshine, short
plantain trees standing quietly along the streets, flourishing bamboos bending
to kiss the stream, Huayao Dai women wearing beautiful ethnic costume smiling in
the field. The hamonious scene occupied my mind, and appeared in my dream at the
first night I returned from Jiasa. I know I cannot forget that place. Jiasa (戛洒) is a small town in Xinping County,
Yunnan Province. 'Jiasa' in Dai language means the street near the beach.
Yuanjiang River flows beside the town and brought it fertile land and warm
weather. Jiasa is famous for its special minorty group, Huayao Dai. It is a
branch of Dai People, and keeps its own features. Huayao Dai People don’t live
in the bamboo buildings as Dai People do, they live in a speicla kind of cottage
called 土掌房(house made of soil). Women wear tattoos on their arms, and they like
chewing pinang to dye their teeth black. Tattoos and black teeth are the simble
of beauty in traditional Huayao Dai women's eyes. We were so lucky that we went to Jiasa at the best
time of a year. In spring, the climate is mild, all the crops in the fields
light up the town. Everything is green: fields, mountains, streams, trees, the
ornaments of Huayao Dai girl’s costume, even the color of wind! There’s a sugar
factory in the town, sometimes the wind brings sweet smell to every corner of
the street. The air is full of frangrance, and the feeling of fresh green
penetrates our head and mind. We arrived Jiasa before the sun set down. The green
smell suddenly devoured us, and drove away all the tire of long journey. After a
wonderful dinner in a restaurant of Dai flavor nearby the road, we started our
adventure of this green town. The evening of Jiasa is amazing. Motorcycle is the
major transport in the town, lads of Huayao Dai often have motor races on the
road. They make up a special scene of Jiasa, which represents the vigor of this
small town. Jiasa girls wear colorful dresses, with exaggerated headgears,
smiling friendly to the strangers. Cold drink store is a part of Jiasa people’s
life. The stores are usually very small, but they strech their space to the
pavement. Most of the cold drink shops and cafes offer tables and chairs on the
street, which provides a direct way for the visitors from different places to
get involved in the local life. This was an embarrassed and sad situation. The
government of Jiasa kept a good purpose but got a failed result. They tried to
imitate Lijiang, with shops and stream along the street to attractive visitors.
But Lijiang gained enormous success, while Flower Street was proved to be a
waste of money and resources. Jiasa should have its own way to develop its
tourism. The special culture of Huayao Dai, Ailao Mountain’s bounterous plant
and animal resources, the gorgeous view of Yuanjiang River and the boundless
green in spring are all the highlights of Jiasa. A Flower Street means nothing.
It cannot bring affluence, it cannot catch attention of travelers. When sitting outside of a cold drink shop at the deep
night of Jiasa, I felt sorry for this small town. It owns so much great
potentialities. It has special ethnic culture, distinguished scenery,
outstanding position in the ancieny history, but not many people know it. Jiasa
neendn't imitation. What Jiasa really needs is to be aware of its unique beauty,
and propagates them. This hidden green town should be
found.
Flower Street is a different street in
Jiasa. Old-fashoined houses along the road, newly planted willows waving in the
wind, tranquil pond murmured with underground spring, delicate statues built as
decorations. It took more than 12 million yuan to build this street, but what we
saw was like a destructive place. Houses were made for shops and stores, but
almost all of them were empty. Some sports facilities near the street were built
for local people, but we couldn’t even find a soul. A place which meant to be
booming and prosperous, which meant to attract visitors with flourish business,
which meant to be an entertaiment place for local people, was as quiet as any
other road in countryside. We chatted with the owner of a handwork store on the
Flower Street. He told us the rent for the shop was quite cheap, but the
business was always in a tough situation. No visitors, no business
opportunities. He prepared to rent or sell his shop, cos there seems no hope in
the future. His words made me sad, as the goods in his shop were really
attractive. Huayao Dai’s costume, colorful paintings on the stones, simple
pottery pot and other local handicraft. I picked a bracelet and a painted stone,
they had fair price. The shop owner was talented, he painted the stones and
those kettles by himself and provided a good bargain. He sent us to the door,
from his hospitality I knew we were one of the small amount of buyers of his
pretty stuff.
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